Monday, June 09, 2008

One from the Land this Time...


I am definitely a sea-faring kind of person.  I grew up on the beach.  And I basically traded one beach (Laguna) for another when moving to Italy.  I eat lots of fish, and I mean lots (remember husband's in the fish business).  But there is a very special dish here in Liguria that I absolutely love...and it has nothing to do with the sea or fish for that matter.  It's a hearty, belly filling delight called Panigacci, which comes from Lunigiana, the valley extending inland along the border between Liguria and Tuscany.  It was believed to have been the food of the nomads as early as the Roman Empire.  

Balls of dough are laid in a small, terra cotta dish known as “testine” and stacked one on top of the other in order to flatten the dough. Then they are placed over hot coals (or in a piazza oven) and what emerges is flat, firm, almost pita looking bread. Panigacci is usually served with stracchino cheese (similar to cream cheese), pesto or nut sauce and cold cuts and of course some local red wine!

If you are ever in or around Southern Liguria, I highly recommend a trip up to Podenzana, the little village where Panigacci is served in abundance at many "panigaccerie" or even in Aulla at my personal favorite, Da Pasquino (and where these photos were taken).  E fantastico!

6 comments:

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Hi found you on A new Life in Italy's blog...bread looks very interesting..we are hoping to go to Liguria sometime this year not sure where yet though..

AmyEmilia said...

From your photo these look fairly thick. I think they are different from the "testarone" (I think I remember that name right) that I had at my husband's cousin's house in La Spezia. I watched as she made them from 00 flour and just a little water and salt. She cooked them on a flat iron paddle directly over the gas flame of the stove (although I'm sure it could have been done in the fireplace). They tasted wonderful with fresh home-made pesto and good red wine.

Megan in Liguria said...

Ciao Amyemilia - Maybe you are thinking of "testaroli" which is a pasta that comes flat like a pizza and even bigger than a pizza??? Panigacci tends to be about as thick as pita bread. M:)

Megan in Liguria said...

And thanks for visiting my blog, Anne! Your blog looks fun as well...M:)

Cynthia Rae said...

This looks like a WONDERFUL thing! I love piadina and it seems to look similar. Might just have to head up there some day and try it! You lost me on the fish though, I can't eat seafood. My husband loves the stuff though and we try to go to seafood restaurants once and while so he can enjoy it (it is hard to cook what you don't eat).

Hope all is well in your corner of Italy!

Cyn

Sunday Cook said...

To add one more "these look like" comment: these look like what Lynne Rosetto Kasper describes as tigelle. She ate them in Rodiano in Modena. They are discs of dough cooked between hot terracotta discs.

She provides a home-kitchen version, using a baking stone, in her fabulous book The Splendid Table.