Poggio Ai Santi:
The Perfect Getaway or "Vacation from your Vacation"...
We drove an hour and a half south to San Vincenzo, a small quaint enough seaside town on the "Etruscan Coast" of Tuscany (also known as the Alta Maremma) and headed up the hill overlooking the sea. We knew from the moment we entered the wrought iron gates, we were in for something special. Immersed in pine trees (oh the smell!) and olive trees sits this magical compound consisting of the main house and several one-level buildings spread around nature. We were happily greeted by the owners two dogs (always a plus for us) and then the receptionist showed us the way to our suite.
Our accommodations were nothing short of lovely. Wood beamed ceiling, hardwood floors, sleek and cool linens on a "to die for" comfortable bed, fancy modern bathroom of travertine and steel, and the sound of birds and bees floating in the air. The suite was quite large (maybe 55 square meters or 600 square feet) and included a kitchenette inside a pretty wooden armoire. We knew then we could have easily stayed a week!
We decided to spend the afternoon by the pool which is also surrounded by lush gardens and to one side has a view of the rolling hills, sea and Elba. We had found paradise.
The details of the rest of the day remain simply wonderful (even our mishap, 5 hour long dinner with a wacko chef added to the fun), but it was the next day that summed it up. I had read that check out time was 10:00am (which seemed odd to me for a place like this (price and the serenity of it all) so we got our stuff together and in the car then headed to breakfast. As we turned in the key, Giulio, the owner's son, said "but you don't need to check out now. it's not until 11." I explained that I saw it written int he booklet as 10am, and he laughed. "We'll need to change that...and for that matter, why don't you use the room until 1pm. We don't need to change it over the for the next guests till then?" How nice was that?!
We entered into the dining sala which is gorgeous and includes a "winter verenda" where we found a table with the perfect view.
Breakfast was abundant and delicious with honey, jams and meats made from the property itself. They also serve a variety of exotic teas. A nice touch for this avid tea drinker!
Giulio checked on us and also suggested we stay for lunch. We had regretted not staying for dinner the might before so we agreed. Another couple of hours by the pool and then we headed back up to the main building where another fabulous table had been set up on the terrace. Here we were greeted by Denny, the chef of the hotel's restaurant called Il Sale, who handed us menus and made recommendations. I regret not having stolen a menu, because it was so innovative and filled with really great combinations (Denny spent 4 years in Greece with his own restaurant there before returning home to San Vincenzo, so there was a little "hellenic" influence in the offerings. While we enjoyed our meal with a view, we met Francesca, the owner, who ended up keeping us company for the rest of our meal. She recounted the story of how had inherited the property and started building the place about 10 years ago, all the "blood, sweat, tears and TLC" that had gone into creating the place. We discussed the design, the furnishing (she even offered to help me with great, "secret finds" for our eventual house!), being in the tourist business, etc. It was an exceptional experience: food, company and location.
We were a little melancholy when it came time to leave. We easily could have stayed another day. But we know we'll be back. For us, it was the perfect getaway - just what I had hoped for. Poggio ai Santi is a sanctuary. If you are looking for nightlife and a little action, this is not the place for you. If you are looking to relax, eat well, sleep like a baby, enjoy the serenity of nature and the fabulous taste of Francesca, then this is "IT".
Cost: Starting at 140-195 Euros for the guestrooms and 176-307 Euros for the suites
including a delicious and robust breakfast.
