Sunday, May 14, 2006


BELLA TOSCANA & ADVENTURES IN CHIANTI CLASSICO...

I recently had the opportunity (and honor!) to collaborate with Judy Witts Francini of Divina Cucina on a "Tuscan Treasures Week" in the heart of Chianti. It was a week full of interesting adventures, entering a new world of friends and places, a sensory overload of tastes and smells, an unbelievable learning experience - and oh and did I mention AMAZING Tuscan food & wine?! It would take a novel to best describe this "event", so I will abbreviate with a list of highlights and commentsÂ…

VILLA SWEET VILLA: Our base was a 16th century villa in Panzano in the heart of the Chianti region. Once owned by the Della Robbia family, it is know a lovely 3 star hotel owned by an Italian count and French countess who despite their noble name can be found working in the garden or preparing the evening's main course in the hotel restaurant. The grounds are manicured to perfection (thanks to the hardworking count!) and were filled with early blooming spring flowers. The rooms are simple and rustic yet comfortable and charming just as one would imagine and hope their Tuscan accommodations would be...

DAY ONE: The village of Panzano is quite small and could easily be passed through while traveling the SS222 Chianti Highway if you did not know what hidden treasures lie within. The first and probably most famous one is the local macellaio and his "uber-butcher shop". The man has made a name for himself countrywide (and well into the states) for his choice cuts and creative uses of meat as well as his personality. People come from all over the world for the "butcher experience". Our day in Panzano was nothing short of that being market day (Sunday). The doors to the macelleria were open at the crack of dawn and there was little standing room (and too many cameras in action). Inside they served a plethora of carnivorous antipasti along with some local moonshine Chianti at 10:00AM! Let the party begin!...The market is relatively small but fun to walk around and see the various offerings which consisted of baskets, ceramic Madonnas, household goods and of course Chianti wines. We also visited a local shoe making shop where you have a choice over 20 types of exotic skins (including ostrich and sting ray) and colors to choose from. Shoes can be made in a matter to days to fit your foot perfectly (made me think of Cinderella!) Our first lunch together was at the fabulous trattoria run by a mother and son team serving fine but simple Tuscan dishes (many of the meats from the famous macelleria). On a beautiful, sunny day like ours, lunch is served served on their wisteria-filled patio overlooking the "Conca d'Oro" (Golden Valley). I could not resist the pappardelle with cinghale (wild boar) which is a local specialty and a "must" for anyone's menu list in Tuscany...

THE DIVA IN ACTION: Monday we spent in Florence exploring the Mercato Centrale and our clients enjoyed an afternoon of Judy's cooking lessons at her cute apartment in the city overlooking the market and the Duomo. Judy is no less than a whiz in the kitchen and should have a doctorate in food and its marriage with spices & other foods! Who would have ever thought gnocchi made with mash potato flakes from a box could be even more delicious than with real potatoes?! The butter and sage sauce so complimented the pasta, I went for seconds (a rarity for me and pasta). It was accompanied by a delicisautepork tenderloin flash sauted with what Judy refers to as the "drugs", her special spice mixture and newly in season raw fava beans and pecorino. Needless to say, "noi abbimo mangiato come le bestie e con piacere"...

FESTA DELLA BUONA STAGIONE: Every year Panzano celebrates their local sagra (festival) - a sort of "kick off" to spring. The people were in Renaissance costumes and performed a mock trail and hanging (that looked all too real to me!). After the "hanging", we experience an amazing event, the flag throwers from Arezzo. I had no idea what coordination and grace went into the art. My hear did leaps every time a flag was tossed 20 feet into the air with only the slightest flick of the wrist. It started with one person and one flag, and grew to about 10 people and 20 flags flying through the air at the same time. It was like watching a beautiful waltz interrupted by a large, encumbersome object. But when thrown, it became a dove flying in the air...

ONE FOR THE “TOP TEN” LIST: Our 10+ course meal at a newly crowned Michelin 1-star restaurant in Castellina had to be one of the best meals I have ever eaten in my life. The setting itself is special in an old medieval cave. The dishes ranged frmackerelive (cinghale medallions and tiny mackeral sandwiches) to crazy (a porcini mushroom cappuccino!) but all beyond delicious and served with suggested wines that best compliment the course. Our 7:30 reservation did not end until well after midnight!

VINO & THE TOWERS: We enjoyed a nice, smaller wsomethingan Donato run by a couple of 30-somethings whose knowledge & passion for food & wine makes a tour and lunch an unforgettable afternoon event. After a 30 minute in-depth but interesting tour of the winery, we were served a home cooked meal while sampling their various wines. I will always savor the Peposo (stewed meat in wine sauce) with their 2001 Chianti Riserva...

SHEEPS & PECORINO: For the pecorino lover in me, I was more than satisfied by tasting the local offerings of one unassuming farmer whose chgourmete better than any I had tasted in gourment restaurants and stores in the states. In addition he stole my heart with his homemade honey. What better combination is there then fresh, warm pecorino with honey dabbed on top?! I even made friends with one of the sheep who would greet me every morning when I walked by the farm - and then would try to hide behind a tree (sheep's tend to be a bit bigger than tree trunks). I think it was sort of a game for the sheep as his tail never stopped waging...

Tuscany is no new name to most travelers to Italy and some may question if it still holds it authentic charm. This week proved to me that Tuscany not only retains its rustic character but revels in it with pride and love. It is a truly magical place brimming in beauty & history, warm & enthusiastic people and endless choices of amazing food & wines. Judy and her endless knowledge & passion for the area, of course, made it an experience of a lifetime...

There will be more of these "Tuscan Treasures" weeks in the near future and I hope some of you reading this will be apart of our next adventure!